Then, sand with 400-grit or 0000 steel wool after it's dry and recoat. Although oil finishes and clear lacquers or varnishes work equally well on cherry, you'll get a smoother finish on this fine-grained wood if you thin the first coat to act as a sealer.To hasten cherry's natural tendency to darken, mix a solution of 1or 2 ounces of sodium hydroxide (lye, poisonous) to a gallon of water, brush it on the wood, then neutralize with water. You probably won't want to stain cherry, except to blend sapwood with darker heartwood.For best results, use a cabinet scraper to remove scratches between grit changes. Because black cherry is nearly as hard as maple, it scratches easily in cross-grain sanding, so never overlap strokes where joints bring the grain together at right angles, such as the comer of a face frame.It mars a clear finish more jarringly than on other woods. All types of woodworking adhesives work well, as long as you carefully control squeeze-out.Ease of splitting Splitting cherry firewood is child’s play as it has a straight grain with a medium texture. Unseasoned wood is also much less efficient as the fire uses all its energy to evaporate water instead of giving off heat. In routing, black cherry doesn't chip or tear like maple, but it will burn during a split-second hesitation. Green wood from the cherry tree is high in water content and will billow out smoke if it’s tossed into the fire.However, use slower drill press speeds (about 250 rpm). Except for the common twist drill, any type of bit does well.In crosscutting, carbide blades outperform steel. Avoid burning by feeding the stock without hesitation. We've found that for some reason steel blades burn black cherry less than carbide-tipped blades.Black cherry planes extremely well due to its fine, close grain, but take light cuts in jointing.
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